Today amidst an April blizzard I consider a Jean-Claude Ellena creation from 2007, Kelly Caleche. As a steady customer of L'Eau d'Hiver and The Different Company Osmanthus, I got my hands on Kelly Caleche at the earliest chance.
I'm not a leather fetishist like some of my perfumista friends, but I have my favorites. L'Artisan Parfumeur Dzing! and Hermes Eau d'Hermes are at the top of my list. Kelly Caleche distinguishes itself from those two as a floral leather. With notes of leather, iris, lily of the valley, mimosa, tuberose and climbing rose, Kelly Caleche smells of an old fashioned hair tonic. That is to say it smells of animal skin dressed with floral water.
I am reminded of Osmanthe Yunnan by Ellena but even more of L'Artisan Parfumeur Fleur de Narcisse, which I have written reminded me of my little toy cradle made of a caribou jaw, of animal skins and booze scrubbed with ivory soap drifts. Ellena's much discussed minimalism again seems directly descended from the thought of Edmond Roudnitska, who didn't brook synthetic musk and candy coating.
Kelly Caleche is an unsmiling but thoughtful perfume. It's like a storm cloud that follows the wearer around. I don't remember my dreams from last night but the perfume gives the impression that I did have difficult dreams that I will continue to try to reassemble.
4/9/08
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8 comments:
Hi dear!
To me, KC is water-drenched flowers. Iris and mimosa in a puddle. JCE seems to be trying to do the smell of water lately -- I read something to that effect in an online interview.
L'Artisan Narcisse was pure Havana cigar in the humidor to me/on me: deeply puzzling.
Eau d'Hermès is a wittled-down Femme (in the original version): one of the only scents I recognize on anyone in the street right off the bat (though not many people wear it). Satisfyingly human...
Those are brilliant snapshot descriptions. The scent of water. I agree and yet his rendition of water is different than the honeydew up the nares kind of aquatic fresh scent. Ellena's water has no aspartame in it.
True, one's storm cloud of perfume that hovers around...
well put.
I keep looking for that perfect leather but so far no go. I have tried so many but maybe it would take a layering to accomplish what I am after...
I really love Dzing! and a sweet take on leather or suede. Leather isn't my fetish, though. Whereas a smoky but delicate skin scent is in my idea of a dream perfume, leather leaves me somewhat cold. Good to hear from you!
I had a sample of Kelly Caleche. At first, I thought "what's the deal?, it's nothing special", but to my surprise, I kept wearing it until the 2 ml sample was finished. Then I missed it. That's Jean Claude Ellena to me: you get to love his perfumes slowly, without realizing it. There's nothing loud and boastful in them.
Dear Jane,
I agree about JCE's perfumes and their mode of persuasion. There's a difficulty or melancholy to Kelly Caleche for me but, like the Missoni, when I don't 100% love something I tend to test and retest it to see how it does on me and what I glean from it.
Sadly, KC was a scrubber for me !
I liked it on the bottle, liked it on the strip-
But on the flesh, it became a nasty sucker.
When it works, it is lovely.
Chaya,
Perfume often causes me to broaden my horizons and this was no exception.
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