slugs back a shot of vodka, no, gin, and licks his lips. The green bean tells the bartender to send a drink to the end of the bar for a creamy iris root. The green bean sidles up to the iris and he shivers at her frosty demeanor. At first, she's cold as the grave. But a few sips and card tricks later, the green bean and the iris root are intertwined in a lovelock spurting candy coated velvet violets. The Unicorn Spell
The Unicorn Spell is one of the strangest perfumes I have ever smelled. Stranger still, this magical beast is the work of Isabelle Doyen, the talented nose behind a host of patently pretty Annick Goutal perfumes. I have long admired Doyen's work at Annick Goutal. None of what I have enjoyed with Songes and Mandragore could have prepared me for the three creations for Les Nez: The Unicorn Spell, Let Me Play the Lion, and L'Antimatiere. All three are utterly unconventional.
The Unicorn Spell jolted me out of my olfactory torpor. At first, I found it disturbing the way the scent of frosted leaves smelled of decay, difficult like a green bean or a green bell pepper. Yet, The Unicorn Spell etched itself on my brain with its uniqueness. Repeated tests unfurled a frozen autumnal berry tartness and a distinct scent of upturned roots. Snow glistened on the scent's surface as it melted on my skin. The green notes are not fresh but both cold and dark, like leaves that have suffered an early frost. A hint of cream and powder in the body allows the scent to settle into the sweet floral warmth of violets that inevitably fades into a haunting breath of a half forgotten daydream. The scent is magical, but like a unicorn it can't be held in captivity for long. The more I wear The Unicorn Spell the more curious I become to unravel its mystery.
The Unicorn Spell is available on Les Nez website.
Image Credit: Two fragments of a lost tapestry from the Unicorn Tapestries, ca. 1495–1505 from The Metropolitan Museum of Art
13 comments:
Oooh !
Does it sit on the skin, or waft like a semi-decayed spectre?
Entranced and chilled by your description.
I'm probably one of the few who didn't fantasize about unicorns as a girl, but I did go to the Cloisters at Fordham with my dad very often, and I dreamed of being that lady...
Oooh !
Does it sit on the skin, or waft like a semi-decayed spectre?
Entranced and chilled by your description.
I'm probably one of the few who didn't fantasize about unicorns as a girl, but I did go to the Cloisters at Fordham with my dad very often, and I dreamed of being that lady...
Hi Cait
It's so true that the classic rules of perfumery -especially the one about seamless flow of notes one into another - have been tossed aside. If Isabelle Doyen can move from the classic AG mode to this unconventional mode, it's a sure sign the world of perfumery is changing. Now there is room for every type of experimentation to fit every type of customer, and that is good!
Now THAT sounds like something worth sniffin'. Alone among the Froot Loops. I'm in.
This sounds so great in an odd way! I've been ignoring thes Les Nez stuff so far,but it looks like I need to go pay attention. Thanks, Cait!
Fascinating! I am eagerly awaiting the samples. Thank you for the great review!
Cait, I am brand new to your blog and I love your writing! I am going to do some research on this Unicorn scent. It sounds very unusual which has me under it's spell already! Frost? Upturned roots? Gorgeous!!!!
Keep up the good work. I am bookmarking your blog!
Wow, sounds like quite the sniff, and for the love of unicorns and in general fantasy themes sounds as though I will have to give Les Nez a sniff.
Thanks for the review Cait.
A little information to go with Unicorn Spell:
we held a small Event in Berlin last Saturday. Isabelle flew in from Paris and brought some of the ingredients she uses.
Petitgrain-Essence (natural) from Paraguay
Narcisse (natural)
Leaves of violet absolu (natural)
Methylionone (synthetic violet molecule)
Nobody found the petitgrain or the Narcisse in the perfume.
The natural violet leaves where considered "strong" "green" or"ugly"
The synthetic violet was: beautiful, sweet and elegant
So much for notes.
By the Way. Very few people - but the reactions where incredible - they match your words very well.
cordially René Schifferle
I am tempted to use a phrase I found shocking when my mother would utter it - but I will refrain.
This sounds like a disgruntled description of the onset of winter in Alaska. Perhaps it's brilliantly attuned to the season.
So different from the warm direction your reviews frequently have.
Very intriguing review. Am also waiting for the samples to reach my neck of the woods.
Oy! Ow! Your description had my jaw dropping. Now how do I get a sniff of that? Sounds very intriguing indeed! (I'm a morbid character - add a mention of "cold as a grave" or cemetery and I want it..... goes with a living room decoration of French graveyard décor, I suppose). Thank you for another lemming, I was just about running out of pets!
If the scent evokes even some of the magic your description of it does, I will *have* to have it. Definitely look forward to sampling these! Hope you review the other two.
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