Givenchy Ange ou Démon

Givenchy Ange ou Démon, composed around the idea of a naughty and nice duality, hovers like a cloud of meringue without much of a venture into perdition. Still, a few unusual notes make Givenchy's new release a shade more interesting than your average creamy floriental on a base of soft woods.

This new scent by Olivier Cresp and Jean-Pierre Bethouart begins with a blast of fruit loop-esque mandarin, the essence of white thyme, and a subtle touch of saffron. The perfume's heart combines buttery white florals of lily, ylang-ylang, and orchid maxillaria, known as the "coconut orchid" for its distinctive coconut scent.

The usual creamy base of tonka bean and sweet vanilla share space with seldom smelled notes of palisander wood and Oak wood essence. The result is that a very familiar composition of white flowers, vanilla and woods takes on uncanny seasoning. Thyme lends the sun-baked quality of the provencal countryside, where the leaves actually grill to a crisp on the stem. Saffron gives the wearer a sumptuous sense of being swaddled in silk. The coconut orchid amps up the scent's sweetness and the rare palisander (cherry) wood and oak wood wake up what would otherwise be a somnolent confection with their tannic bite of leaves and the solidity of fine furniture.

With her dark roots beneath a loopy mane of gold, Ms. Weiss, spawn of Dominique Villepin, appears to wear the working wig of a girl who sulks as she strips to put herself through art school. There is something faintly ridiculous about the promotional image and the mascot's glum look. Sullen doesn't always sizzle. Yet, the juice is quite wearable and more interesting than many major releases.

Givenchy Ange ou Démon will be at Nordstrom in mid-August but they are already giving out little plastic packet samples. She's no Belle de Jour, but Givenchy Ange ou Démon is a valiantly novel release in the world of sweet spicy florientals.