Art of Perfumery: Who Are These Masked Noses?

Perfumers are crying for freedom and independent microperfumeries seem to be their sanctuary. Art of Perfumery is one of the newest independent small perfume houses. Recently, I sampled the 4 feminine eaux de parfum and 3 masculine eaux de toilette. All fragrances have versions for Room Spray and Luxury Candles. Art of Perfumery emphasizes its noses' total artistic freedom and includes the stories behind the creation of each scent on its website, which is the exclusive outlet for purchase of its products.

Like the recently reviewed scents from Le Labo, Art of Perfumery takes a no nonsense approach to packaging and names. The fragrances are numbered rather than named and are all packaged in the brand's standard flacons.

The generic packaging and numbering puts the emphasis on the juice rather than the shtick to sell the juice. As much as I enjoy the fantasy behind perfume, Art of Perfumery's approach focuses my nose on what I am smelling. That kind of presence appeals to me.

AoP 2 Citrus Herbal Cologne

AoP 2 is a citrus herbal cologne on the model of the legendary Jean Marie Farina Eau de Cologne now sold by Roger & Gallet as Extra-Vieille. The parfumeur-createur, who shall remain nameless, said of AoP 2: "One of the greatest “get up and go” fragrances of all time is the original Eau de Cologne by Jean Marie Farina. Spectacularly fresh, immediately popular and with an appeal that has lasted centuries. In many ways it had exactly the right profile for this project which was to create a special fragrance which rises above fashion trends of the time and represents a true expression of the art of perfumery."

The tale of Jean Marie Farina is a seminal one in the history of perfumery. Beginning in the 18th century, Jean-Marie Farina sold a scent called l'Eau Admirable, whose formula he obtained from his uncle, Jean-Paul Feminis. The Cologne College of Medicine endorsed the scent for medicinal use. Over time it grew in popularity throughout Europe and went by the name Eau de Cologne. The Eau de Cologne was eventually produced in France by Farina's descendant in the 19th century until the business and the formula was sold to Roger & Gallet, who produce it to this day.

AoP riffs on Eau de Cologne by Jean Marie Farina rather than copying it. With notes of Italian bergamot, Mediterranean lavender from Grasse, basil, sage, nutmeg, and patchouli, it has undeniable energy and notably high quality ingredients. Although AoP 2 was envisioned as a masculine scent, it is magnetizing on a woman. With its citrus herbal opening and a basil and sage segue into warm and earthy notes of nutmeg and patchouli, it is more substantial than most traditional eaux de toilette of its kind. Its bergamot is a lightning bolt. Its lavender is both velvety and astringent. The Indonesian Patchouli is an earthy but not leaden platform. Nutmeg ornaments the base with a residual sparkle after the electric topnotes warm and fade.

For those readers who saw my article on Perfumes Against the Plague here some months ago, I think you'd like AoP 2 because it has the strength, purity and tonifying qualities that sounded so appealing in that legendary recipe. This scent is a tribute to Farina's Eau de Cologne, the most famous healing tonic in the history of perfumery, so it is logical that it recalls the perfumes against the plague that preceded it.

AoP 2 gives hours of enjoyment and it evolves over time. In this olfactive tribute to Eau de Cologne, one of the keystones in the art of perfumery, there is a very current touch that makes the scent easily wearable in daily life. This is not merely a conceptual or period piece, but a scent to wear now.

The story behind this high quality perfume piques my curiosity to know -- who are these masked noses?

Watch Legerdenez in the next few days for reviews of the remaining 6 fragrances by Art of Perfumery