4/28/09

Hermessences Brin de Reglisse


Imagine the dissection of a flower into its molecular components and the reassemblage of that flower to represent its imaginary ideal. That is Brin de Reglisse. Made to summon the scent of Provencal lavender blowing in the wind, Jean Claude Ellena conjured lavender by way of licorice. Ellena's signature transparency sets off aspects of the smell of lavender and licorice as if they are precious stones suspended in thin air. Or the scent is a cocktail served in a superbly sterile crystal glass, from which you drink resinous, piney airs, as well as maple richness, a particularly herbal gin, the woody, sweet chewy texture of licorice, and a cooling, antiseptic aura. Worn for more than a moment, Brin de Reglisse will evanesce. Reapply and wait, and the floral warmth of orange blossom develops. Like a figure on lucite heels, Brin de Reglisse stands without a palpable base. Much like Diorissimo hovers, Brin de Reglisse has arguably revised the conventions of the perfume pyramid to dispense with the finish in a lasting base accord. Or perhaps Brin de Reglisse is another sapphic pot shard made to be appreciated for what it lacks. There is also always the possibility that Brin de Reglisse is more of a gesture than a completed fine fragrance. I draw no conclusions as to which, if any of these theories is correct.

Note: Many bloggers and writers have commented on Brin de Reglisse before me and these writings are worth a google.

4/27/09

Hermessences Vanille Galante


A haze of metallic pollen gives way to green honey and the floral tones of ylang-ylang. There is a bitterness and powdery white texture, like unripe bananas. As the scent heats on the skin, the scent conjures sultry shadows, with a woody dryness and a complex of sensations: unsweetened cocoa powder, fresh manure, and dusty hay, moistened and fuming in the sunlight. Throughout the development of Vanille Galante, ylang-ylang strobes. Jasmine, too, spurts its at bittersweet nectar, just like it tastes when sucked from the blossom where it is anchored in the stem. This white floral is similar to countless other vanilla/ylang-ylang compositions on the market, especially this year, but it is more ethereal than the others. By its spacious composition, Vanille Galante positions itself in the same niche as a smart fabric; it is breathable. Made from natural vanilla as opposed to the synthetic vanillin, the eau de toilette evokes the vanilla orchid on the vine rather than pastry cream ... most of the time. In its drydown, a soft-spoken musk leaves room for the wearer to catch the suggestion of an edible vanilla. The skin is never totally occluded by any of these notes. This perfume begins with the delicate shimmer of a densely faceted accord evolves entropically. Put another way, it's as if the perfume starts at the smell of the teeming metropolis then zooms out to render the scent of the Milky Way, on a scale where there are light years between stars. The fact that Ellena demonstrates this shift in scale with the humble and ubiquitous vanilla is at once cosmic and concretely sensual.

4/24/09

Frédéric Malle Editions de Parfums Dans Tes Bras


Meant to evoke a comforting embrace in salty skin, Maurice Roucel has created a most troubling perfume with Dans Tes Bras. Dans Tes Bras is troubling because it causes an unhappy synethesia, as if one had eaten something that should be smelled, or smelled something that should be felt. With notes of bergamot, clove, violet, jasmine, sandalwood, patchouli, incense, cashmeran, heliotrope and white musk, it doesn't sound like it should be so disturbing, but it is.

The air of Dans Tes Bras wafts the scent of wet construction paper as smelled from the back of the mouth; pulp and popsicle stick chemical fruit. I imagine this mystery fruit effect is the product of bergamot's citrus burst combined with violet, jasmine, clove, and incense. Remember the old breath mint Sen-Sen? On tasting Sen-Sen recently I kept skimming the surface of a scent memory that I couldn't quite disinter. Buried under the humid, feverish flesh of Dans Tes Bras is Sen-Sen's antiquated pastille accord, a cologne for the breath.

And there are loose ends. In musical terms, Dans Tes Bras is a tragic phrase of impending loss rather than a triumphant symphony. Smell it and you feel a desire to cradle the tender nearness of the scent, followed by repulsion at the bittersweet, ambiguous funk, then a brave attempt to love it for what it is, and again more repulsion. As no perfume has done before, Dans Tes Bras renders the expiring body of a loved one, steeped in chemicals. I guess they couldn't call it Chémotherapie, because that would kill sales, but it is a difficult and frightening evocation that makes Dans Tes Bras worth smelling.

Disguised in the cashmeran, heliotrope, and white musk accord, the stuff of plush stuffed animals and post-coital laundered bliss, Dans Tes Bras never quite fumigates its disturbing fungal core. In that sense, it is a latterday Four Thieves Vinegar, the herbal concoction once thought to fight Bubonic Plague. The swaddling of the grim reaper in the "salty skin scent" accord makes this a wryly contemporary work of art. Or perhaps it is unreflectively like modern life, a sugar-coated poisoned pill. Like a lot of contemporary art, it is not pretty and it does not make you feel good without a measure of boredom and mystery.

4/18/09

Ayala Sender Releases Hanami Perfume Today

It all started with a poem: In March 2008, perfumer Ayala Sender was invited along with 14 other leading perfumers in the niche perfume industry to interpret a haiku-like poem by Ezra Pound, “In A Station of the Metro” for a project titled “Perfume In A Poem” Memory & Desire blog. One year later, Ayala Moriel releases the perfume at Blunda Aromatics in Los Angeles, in the 2nd of their 8-part Natural Botanical Perfume Exhibitions. “As I was reading the poem, I envisioned a perfume that is subtle and urbane: flowers and dusty dirt”, says Ayala. She drew on her olfactory experiences in the metro stations in New York and Montreal, and the cherry blossom boulevard in Burrard SkyTrain station, which is the heart of the Cherry Blossom Festival (Hanami) in Vancouver.

“The challenge was to create the feel of concrete, asphalt and metallic surroundings using natural aromatics only”, says Ms. Sender, who used Haitian vetiver, cabreuva oil, French Cassie and Oleander to create the feel of metal, wet wood and concrete. These serve as a backdrop for the cheerful lightweight floral notes of sakura, mimosa and magnolia, creating a perfume that is ever changing, ranging from “sweet floral notes in the sunshine to cool dampness of concrete and steel."

I wish I could have been there for the launch today. To learn more about Hanami click here.

1/7/09

My summer skirt kept flipping up in the wind. It was that current from the Golden Gate that goes right through that area round Hyde and McAllister. I was headed up to Polk Street to visit a few buildings and preach the word of lead paint remediation through mime to refugees from Bosnia and Iraq renting in the Tenderloin. I confess I never believed a bit of the dangers of lead poisoning. I mean, how did smart, healthy people come out okay, like Einstein or say, the baby boomers before they realized they could coast on the royalties from their greatest hits? So I didn’t really buy the lead poisoning hype, but I threw myself into the job with zeal.

I made my way with stealth, ringing every doorbell on the front of a building until someone buzzed me in. Once inside I diligently performed my gesture acting, showing newly arrived immigrants how -- hand scraping wall and into mouth-- makes a baby --- arms rocking an invisible doll--very sick--- tongue out like Mr. Yuck Mouth. That part was the most comical but not the most difficult to convey. To explain that we could remove the dangerous paint and make it safe was near impossible. I’d been working for several hours already that day and once I finished a building or two on Polk Street I found myself in front of a boutique with a man on display behind a gilded display window. He may have seen me stare, but he kept his lips pursed like a baby doll and didn’t budge as I announced my entry into the store with a jostle of bells on the door knob. The shop sold soaps and bath salts that were placed sparsely on the shelves behind the counter.

This was before Polk Street became French with Boulange de Polk and La Folie and before Polk Street became Mediterrean with the Mediterrean Deli (sic but great green beans). Before Polk Street had Moroccan imports, there were still working movie theaters with ornate old facades like The Alhambra, now a gym called something like Punch! or Snap! Back then, it was mostly porn shops, boy hustlers, lunatics, and outside agitators.

This soap shop had sprung out of nowhere. I’d never seen it before. It was a soft red inside, like a womb from which its proprietor prayed to be aborted. He was all comb over and tucked shirt and lips. After an awkward silence as I gazed around at what looked more like wartime rations than merchandise, he spoke to me at some length.

He wore his lips like falsies, to show how French language and culture had permanently changed his needs and attributes. From showing me a shabby carton of Valobra soap, he quickly moved to telling me his life story.

He was Daniel Dubois, you haven’t heard? Oh, well, he was used to the rife ignorance. People today are most ignorant of great art. The House of Dubois has operated from Alsace for generations. It has a most esteemed reputation for creation of perfumes. I didn’t know? He became instantly irritated and more so when a guy with dirt locks stumbled in and rang the bells before Daniel gave him a withering look and he left.

What followed was sort of a hurricaine of pretense and contempt for the prevailing taste for mass market perfume, not that I’d raised the subject. Dubois became increasingly agitated as he showed me his oeuvre that he kept hidden behind the counter. He didn’t need to ask me whether I knew of peony, he visibly assumed my ignorance and spun the tale of a Chinese princess that belonged to one of his masterpieces. I flashed on my grandmother’s peonies battened down with panty hose.

As he discussed each flacon, his speech became more and more frantic and nonsensical. His accent was not French. His speech was a scythe sharpened with spit. The phone rang. He answered. It was a bill collector who had the nerve to call. He slammed down the receiver. Talk shifted to his troubled business, his difficulty paying his phone bill and then turned back to the perfumes, which he jealously guarded and never let me smell. He made the motions of going over his whole repertoire, scent by scent, but in fact, he only made sounds or grimaces to fill in the whole explication. It was like seeing what a very detailed dream actually contains: a skeleton of a narrative whose motions give the facsimile of detail and reason. He continued, surely, his art was just too fine and elegant a passion for me to grasp. After some time, I began to shift my weight from foot to foot from fatigue. He kept talking.

I escaped from the Parfumerie of Daniel Dubois before quitting time. I had the idea to have all of my friends call him and ask, “Hey, is this Art’s Crab Shack?” but I wasn’t mean enough. He’s still doing business, but I think he’s moved north.

Photo Untitled by Caitlin Shortell

1/6/09

Perfume is Only One of My Sensual Interests.

This video of Mark Bittman makes a compelling case for what's wrong with what we eat.

12/31/08

Lez Nez Manoumalia

Manoumalia is a perfume by Sandrine Videault inspired by the South Pacific Island of Wallis and its olfactory culture. It contains exotic components that will nonetheless smell somewhat familiar to connoisseurs. Manoumalia is Videault's attempt to present relatively obscure notes in a Western composition. Its exotic profile challenges me to break it down to its components and analogize. The scent begins with a neroli note like the pale, translucent flesh of cucumber wrapped in a straw mat that has been sitting on a dirt floor. The aquatic freshness of neroli ripens into an olfactory stop. The perfume is paced by some kind of pause, a “talk to the hand” of perfume that confounds me. There is a wall erected inside the scent (by the vetiver? the suggestion of curcuma?), partitioning its more exuberant aspects with a saffron and almond tinged mystery forcefield. This cool, strawlike, saffron and almond effect evokes the lesser known charms of the tropics. What begins as a serene oddity ripens into a peacock display of ylang ylang and the especially exotic Fragrea. The trumpet blooms of fragrea, also known as perfume flower tree, puakenikeni, or ten cent flower, are used as lei flowers and are similar in scent to tiare or gardenia. Manoumalia's flowers smell like the blinding sun trapped in a drop of dew. This scent is richly ambered and yet sings in a pure, girlish voice, like early Gal Costa. The hushed tones of sandalwood dust powder the scent with a dusklike warmth. In spite of the anthropological research that Manoumalia represents, it is not didactic. Manoumalia is an understated and thoroughly wearable perfume, more successful by far than Guerlain’s ylang ylang perfume Mayotte, which explores the same territory. Maybe that’s because Manoumalia gestures toward something so particular and as yet unhyped as to be irreplaceable.

Manoumalia will be available in early 2009 from Les Nez. Photo above, perfumer and perfume historian Sandrine Videault smelling Fragrea, from the Les Nez website.

12/30/08

2008 Retrospective

2008 was a good year for perfume, if only because I had neglected to sniff and to write on these pages for so long that I returned to it recently with the fervor and the modesty of an amateur. My favorite perfumes of 2008 are perfumes that I have yet to review as I madly sniff to catch up with the breakneck pace of fragrance releases.
Not only did I return to my love of perfume in 2008, I became yet more loyal to one of my favorite houses, Chanel, and regarded other houses with greater appreciation than I had in the past.

Chanel Sycomore is an astonishing vetiver fragrance that haunts me. In part, this is because I spilled about a quarter ounce of it all over one of my bags. Consequently, I find myself thinking about Sycomore quite often as I use my computer, pens... Sycomore is part of the renaissance at Chanel begun with the release of Les Exclusifs and intensified with the addition of Christopher Sheldrake to the team. In one year, Chanel gave us Sycomore, Beige and Eau Premiere, all of which were distinctive and exquisite perfumes. Chanel has outdone even Monsieur Ellena with its release of truly unforgettable transparent modern fragrances.Chanel's exclusives are available from Chanel boutiques, Bergdorf Goodman, and Neiman Marcus. Eau Premiere is now widely available in department stores. Ala Moana Chanel Boutique, my wallet will see you in February!

Parfumerie Generale Ombre Fauve, a fauve shadow, is the perfume that clinched my newfound love of amber fragrances. My discovery of Parfumerie Generale only really happened late this year, as I mused on the perfection of Ombre Fauve and Drama Nuui and sampled all the perfumes I missed since this house released its initial collection. Parfumerie Generale is available at Luckyscent, Perfume Shoppe, and at Parfumerie Generale.

Jo Malone Kohdo Wood Collection was an unexpected delight. The fizzy tonic of Lotus Blossom and Water Lily was a perfect foil to the rich but wearable Dark Amber and Ginger Lily. My latter day enthusiasm came almost too late to snap up bottles of these limited edition fragrances before they dissappeared.

Le Labo Musc 25 left me speechless with perfume lust far from Los Angeles. Le Labo was already one of my favorite houses, ever since I first explored their fragrance and interviewed the founders on this site in 2006. Since then, Le Labo has created a line of home fragrances and unique products like a leather notebook scented with their sandalwood perfume, opened several new boutiques, and released a series of brilliant location exclusive fragrances, each more tempting than the last. Look forward to more details about Le Labo on Legerdenez in 2009. Le Labo is available at Le Labo and Barney's New York.

L'Etat Libre d'Orange piqued my curiosity with rumors that it would expand its Marais boutique and partner with Taschen to create a "perfume publication pole." In a time when publication and entertainment itself is entirely in flux, I am on tenterhooks to see what L'Etat Libre d'Orange has in store for the world. I repeat my dare for the house to create a perfume about queer civil rights that would befit the house's legendary wit and brashness. L'Etat Libre is available at Henri Bendel and L'Etat Libre d'Orange.

Lez Nez Manoumalia is my last blissful discovery of 2008. Sandrine Videault has added an imaginative treasure to this bravely avant-garde house. With its willingness to take chances and give perfumers license to explore the unconventional, Lez Nez is a rare gem. Manoumalia will be available online at Lez Nez in 2009.

New Year Dreams and Wishes

1. May 2009 be a year bursting with creativity for artists, musicians, dancers, perfumers, and writers.

2. Let my two top secret perfume projects materialize!

3. Let there be an end to torture and war and equal rights for all in the new and, we hope and pray and insist, improved America.

For the new year, I wish you all good nose.

Please visit the blogs below for more 2008 Retrospectives.
1000 Fragrances
Ars Aromatica
A Rose Beyond the Thames
Bittergrace Notes
Grain de Musc
I Smell Therefore I Am
Notes From the Ledge
Savvy Thinker
The Non Blonde
Tuileries
the Perfume Shrine

12/22/08

Persephone by Sali Oguri

Persephone is a limited edition perfume by New York musician, tv personality, perfumer, blogger, and thinker Sali Oguri. Oguri is notable among perfume bloggers for rare but refreshing social critiques. Whether the subject is the perfume industry's exoticization of whole groups of consumers on the basis of race or national origin or the recent push for equality on gay marriage, Oguri finds a way to discuss the beauty of perfume alongside things that matter just as much, like love and equality. What further distinguishes Oguri is that her art as a singer and perfumer informs her critical thought and vice versa. Persephone is a prime example of one creative endeavor enriching another. Persephone is a fragrance composed to inspire and be inspired by a body of music in process. Now that I have experienced the perfume I would love the chance to hear the music in the future.

Persephone is a precious extrait of perfume using a high quality natural sandalwood in concert with notes evoking chocolate and Persephone's symbolic fruit, the pomegranate. The tart red fruit combined with dark chocolate makes for a euphoric opening. Persephone begins in a confected riot, as deep and sweet as a tootsie roll. An intense, sweet unctuousness recalls tropical oils used to dress the hair, giving a radiant and expansive quality to the fragrance. Once the fruity and chocolatey top notes develop, elegant plumes of sandalwood emerge. In Persephone, sandalwood has the uncanny sense of a presence in the room. This warmth and nutty, saltiness of the natural sandalwood is part of what gives Persephone its vibrancy. Yet the sharper woodiness and milkiness accentuated in other sandalwood fragrances are smmoothed out in Persehpone, and given a different interpretation. Persephone is unabashed and diffusive. It is a fragrance that would suit agile and robust dancers in neon colored printed costumes. Ironically, none of the fragrances that use an exoticizing approach to sales have captured the heat and exuberance contained in a tiny bottle of Persephone, and Persephone steers clear of any of that nonsense.
Chalk it up to the fact that Persephone was written by a working musician. Persephone was obviously made by a person who understands that art has the power to save lives.

Drama Nuui by Parfumerie Generale

Does jasmine spell big drama for you? Drama Nuui is, I surmise, some Polynesian/English/French slang for Big Drama. Nuui may be an unusual spelling of Nui, as in Rapa Nui, Big Earth, or aloha nui, big aloha. This is pure speculation on my part, of course. Many of my personal dramas are tied up with jasmine so it was a given that I would get my hands on Drama Nuui as soon as I could transport it to my subpolar perch. Jasmine carries with it memories of wandering under starry skies by California fences in bloom, shards of Greek poetry, buying little necklaces of jasmine in Cairo and Paris, of faraway places and dreams of love. By December, I have been dreaming jasmine dreams for months. Just a glance at the notes of petit grain, absinthe, jasmine, spices, guaiac wood, sandalwood, musk sold me unsniffed. Drama Nui is dramatic but at once the tenderest rendition of jasmine I've smelled in a long time. The petit grain and bitter green absinthe give an ethereal loft to the scent. Jasmine's creamy petals crushed between fingertips release a kind of thrill as they do when plucked in the very early morning. Rather than turning too bitter or astringent, the touch of citrus and absinthe evokes the coolness and prickle of the morning air.The combination of luxurious pink jasmine with these verdant touches recalls walls of star jasmine still cooled by morning fog or even the clutches of wild flowers called pink ladies that smell of banana and sugar-flavored candy necklaces.Jasmine's heady, indolic scent seques into very faint spices that warm on the skin; guaiac wood, sandalwood, and musk. Although the pairing of jasmine, sandalwood and musk is a classic, Drama Nuui sings in a reedy, high voice, rather than the deep throat of other compositions that take a heavier, oriental approach to the jasmine sandalwood combination. Whereas Patou's opulent Sira des Indes or Parfums Delrae's achingly beautiful Amoureuse offer us the Taj Mahal of jasmine,in Drama Nuui, the emphasis is on the opening and heart notes. The base serves but never upstages the perfume. Its restraint and lushness makes it a sensitive work ripe for dreams.